Opening Shots

 

From Vince Slaugh, Editor:

      Greetings from Happy Valley, and welcome to the new Union Standard ! 

      If all goes according to plan, every newsletter will begin with this section—“Opening Shots”—which gives brief commentaries by some of the editors or officers on national and local Civil War matters.  Examples include highlights from recent events, sneak peeks at upcoming events, opinions about Civil War news, and previews of articles within the newsletter.  For this edition, I’ll take the opportunity to give some of my thoughts about editing the Union Standard.

      For me, editing this newsletter means an opportunity to delve into some Lancaster Civil War history in a semi-formal setting, encourage others to do the same, and practice some basic skills such as writing, coordinating, and publishing.  More specifically, it means sharing the themes found in rich material collected from Lancaster’s Civil War newspapers and other facets of my fascination with studying the Civil War for the benefit of the unit.  For example, the article about “Young America” ties into moral reforms and attitudes of the mid-nineteenth century and activities on the home front during the Civil War, and the Ben Ober letter printed later in the newsletter contains some excellent commentary about soldiers’ evolving attitudes toward emancipation of slavery and politics mixing with soldiers’ aid.  The newsletter also provides a way for me to stay involved with and help the unit while away at Penn State.

      I encourage you to try your own hand at Civil War research and submit material to the newsletter on anything from a wide range of topics.  To do so, follow the directions posted in the “Information and Procedures” paper in the “Newsletter/Minutes” section of the unit website (http://unionguard.cciu.org).  Also, if you have not already done so, please read over the “Information and Procedures” paper for highlights of what to expect from the newsletter.  Of course, if you have any suggestions, especially regarding creative content or readability, please forward them to the editors.           

      This edition of the Union Standard is a good starting point, although a couple features still need worked into the newsletter.  For future issues, I would like to try to focus on adding a few pictures and shifting toward more short articles instead of two or three longer articles.  The various committees are invited to submit information for publication in the newsletter regarding events and activities.  

      Looking forward through to the next couple pages, please notice Assistant Editor Lindsey Koch’s first-rate article sure to be helpful to many current and future reenactors on recreating an authentic dress.  Also, thanks go to Kay Lingle, alias Rosina Hubley of the Patriot Daughters of Lancaster, for her report on the living history at the Lancaster County Historical Society in September.  Please look forward to many more interesting articles to come (perhaps some trivia, too!) on reenacting and historical topics ranging from colorful trends in fashion to thorny controversies surrounding the Patriot Daughters to the brutal battles of the Pennsylvania Reserves.     

      Enjoy!

Vince Slaugh

University Park, PA

 

Grumbling about ‘Young America’

By Vince Slaugh

           

      In the 1840s, the nickname “Young America” was created to embody the sentiment that the United States could “whip all creation.”  More specifically, it referred to the segment of the Democratic Party that heartily believed in the territorial expansion of the United States to the Pacific Coast, even if that meant a fight with Britain over Oregon.  Audacity, boldness, and the exuberance of youth characterized members of the Young America Movement.[1]

      By the 1860s, some of Lancaster’s newspaper editors retained the label but gave it a tongue-in-cheek twist.  As will be seen, “Young America” became associated with reprehensible actions, many of which resulted from the rashness of young Lancastrians.  Such behavior often clashed with the moral reforms upheld by Lancaster’s progressive Republican newspapers such as the Daily Evening Express.  The following is a collection of editorial criticisms of adolescent moral behavior found in the pages of Civil War newspapers.  It serves to both illustrate some of the social conventions of the era and provide insight into the minds of Lancaster’s progressive reformers.

      A good introduction to Lancaster’s take on Young America is a report of celebrations on Centre Square from the May 13, 1862, Daily Evening Express.  The “great victories” refer to Union General George McClellan’s advances on Richmond as part of his 1862 Peninsula Campaign.  Take note of the devilish trick an ill-humored businessman played on the unsuspecting boys. 

 

     Rejoicing:  The manner in which the boys performed their part of the celebration last evening, in honor of the great victories, was characterized by that earnest go-ahead-ativeness which is peculiar to fast Young America.  Bonfires cast their ruddy light against houses and trees, utterly eclipsing the pale light of the moon, which, however, shone calmly on, confident that her reign would last when these ephemeral rivals were no more.   Several crossings were marked by a most brilliant blaze shooting up from their center, around which danced the boys, whose dark figures, now standing out against the bright light, now disappearing beyond it, made a picture singular enough when observed from a distance.  One person complimented them by saying, in our hearing, that it was a good miniature imitation of Pandemonium, with the imps flitting round the mouth of the pit.

     In Center Square, as it should have been, was the bonfire of the evening.  Boxes, barrels, and other moveables, taken with and without the consent of their owners, were multiplied, and subsequently divided by the flames.  The blaze shot up into the air, illuminating the buildings and the flag with a bright glow, and for a while

“All went merry as a marriage bell.”

By and by a grocer (charity suppresses his name) presented the boys with a barrel and contents, which they bore in triumph to the pile, unconscious of the surprise awaiting them.  Truly,

“When ignorance is bliss, ‘tis folly to be wise.”

So thought not the boys, however, and into the fire went the barrel and contents, when lo! so soon as the heat began to act chemically upon the contents of the barrel, their fragrance was diffused, permeating the surrounding air with an odor, not of the spices of Araby, but of fish, which were, like modern politics, in an advanced stage of decomposition.  The boys, not content with celebrating the victories, undertook also to give a theatrical representation of the bombardment of Sewell’s Point, and immediately stove in the heads of the barrel and exhumed the decaying codfish.  Having no definite point at which to aim, they concluded to practice upon each other, which they did; and for a while the codfish

“—hail flew thick and fast,”

one unfortunate individual receiving a wound in the mouth, which appeared to give him a dis-taste for future operations, as he immediately left the field in search of a surgeon.  All the time our olfactory organs were filled with an odor to which the fish market, ten fold intensified, would be no circumstance; from this those who were fortunate enough not to be there can form some idea.  Finally the bombardment ceased; but, alas! the odoriferous properties of the codfish missiles were not yet spent, as any one within a half-square could testify.

     The bonfires were kept up until a late hour, and Young America had the benefit of a “high old time” generally, so we “children of the larger growth” must likewise be satisfied.  We would suggest to the boys, however, that hereafter a committee of investigation be appointed, to act in conjunction with the committee on appropriations, for the purpose of inquiring into all barrels, boxes, etc., which may come into their possession, legally or otherwise, so that our citizens may not have their health endangered by such occurrences as that of last night.  The codfish are yet sending forth affecting tokens of their presence, which warn those of sensitive organization from too close an approach.  Celebrate, boys, but don’t’ use such materials, for the sake of the health and comfort of the Square.

 

The Union army’s strike at Richmond would ultimately fail, and few opportunities for celebration existed until July 1863 with victories at Gettysburg and Vicksburg.  News of the Vicksburg’s surrender to the Union army on July 4 reached Lancaster on July 7 while school was in session.  The July 9 Express reported:

 

     Young America Jubilant:  An incident occurred in one of the Common Schools of this city on Tuesday afternoon, which illustrates the jubilant character of Young America.  While the boys were in the midst of their studies the bells pealed out the joyous news of the fall of Vicksburg.  The boys of course became fidgetty and were anxious to know what was going on.  The principal in order to gratify this desire—a very nature one in these “war times”—sent a messenger to ascertain the facts.  He shortly returned brining the glad tidings of the great victory, and the news was duly announced.  The boys glanced from one to another, but knowing that cheering was an infringement upon the decorum of the school, there were at a loss how to let off their overflowing enthusiasm.  A happy idea, however, seemed to take spontaneous possession of the whole room, and they broke out with the stirring song of “Rally Round the Flag, Boys.”  Music is not an inhibited act in the school, and the principal could do no better than let the boys proceed to the end, when the school resumed its usual order.

 

Not all news regarding Lancaster’s institutions of public education was so positive, however.  Much of this form of publicity focused on the after-dusk activities of boys and girls.  To combat this, Lancaster—a nineteenth century bastion for advancing public education—began “Public Night Schools” with a purpose outlined in the October 11, 1861, Express:

       

     The Public Night Schools, as will be seen by announcement in our advertising columns, will open on Monday night.  We trust that all the friends of popular education, and especially all interested in the social welfare as well as in the intellectual culture of the youth of both sexes, who may not be able to attend the day schools, will interest themselves in securing a large attendance upon these night schools.  There are scores of both sexes who frequent the streets at night during the winter, learning lessons of vice, who ought to be in the night schools, and who could be got there if the proper efforts were made by their neighbors.

 

Just over three months later on January 18, 1862, the editors of the Express printed the following lament:

 

     Night Schools and Street Morals:  To be seen, or not to be seen, is the question that most disturbs the minds of a large portion of the young people in every community.  Boys above all else desire to be seen and considered young men, and girls in short dresses, take thought how to add to their stature and emerge from girlhood into young ladyship.  Boys will wear high crowned hats, flourish rattan canes, smoke cigars, chew tobacco, swear vile oaths, drink whisky and talk loud in public places, all to prove to the world that they are not boys but men.  In the first half of the evidence they succeed, but fail in the second; for such are neither boys nor men, but mere things gotten up in the shape of overgrown boys.  The have lost the modesty of boys without attaining the dignity of true manhood.  These persons flourish most conspicuously at night fall, and are especially wont to congregate about church doors and public assemblies, greatly to the annoyance of modest and prudent young ladies.  And so uncertain is their characters that it is disreputable to ladies to be seen in their society and forced to mingle with the “commoner cattle” and become and insult to the virtuous.

     Right over against these fast youngsters, we place a certain class of ambitious girls, whose chiefest desire it is, to be esteemed young ladies.  Their mamma dress them like young ladies, giving them a very awkward appearance; they are seen and heard in all public places; they talk loud on the street; move ungracefully and are boisterous in society, and in all their attempts to ape the lady they make ridiculous failures; always attract attention, but never admiration.  And just here is the occasion for the title of this article.  It is the common remark about the depot, that the girls who attend the night school are boisterous and rowdyish to a shameful degree.  So unlady like has been their conduct that ungenerous reflections have been brought not only upon themselves, but their families and friends have been involved.  There is no evidence from the path of rectitude, but their conduct is such as will excite suspicion, and attract the sort of creatures described above, who seek only for the society of ladies of doubtful character.  There is but a thin partition which divides levity and boisterous conduct from disgrace and ruin; and improper exhibitions on the street at night, is the speediest way to break down the flimsy barrier.

     If parents wish to save their daughters from ruin, they must keep them free from evil communications; not allow them on the streets at nightfall unless properly accompanied.  A fearful responsibility rests upon fathers and mothers in this matter.  Let your daughters train in the school of vice for a few years, and they must fall, no matter what have been the lessons of morality inculcated at home.  We see nightly girls from twelve to fourteen years of age running the streets.  It would perhaps be unjust to say that they have departed from the path of virtue, but they are on the very thresh-hold of ruin, and it must overtake them as soon as their ears have become familiarized to vice.   When the heart itself is not inclined to evil, there is nothing like the lessons learned in the street after dark to make it so.  Again we say to parents, keep your daughters in doors after dark, unless you are certain of their associates, and that they are removed from insult from either the conversation or manner of frivolous girls or vicious young men.

 

Young America often received the epithet “fast” in these editorials to describe how many attempted to act much older than their age.  The Daily Inquirer elaborated on August 16, 1862:

       

     Fast Boys.—Lancaster has generally been noted for the fast character of its boys, and at the present time they are particularly fast.—We do not know whether the parents and the friends of these boys are aware of the fact or not, but if they are not it is time they were, or else their “gray hairs will be brought in sorrow to the grave.”  As we pass along the streets we see mere lads smoking cigars and giving utterance to such horrible oaths, that one turns away sickened and sad; or if they are not uttering blasphemy that abandoned wretches would blush at, they are using impudent and insulting language to persons who are passing along the streets, no matter whether strangers or residents, ladies or gentlemen.  If they have such a state of morals when they are so young, what will they be when they become men?  Every thing in this world is naturally progressive, and bad habits, if not kept down, will progress faster than anything else.  Such being the case, there is a fearful future in store for them.  Parents be on your guard, your sons are going on the broad road to prediction at a “break neck speed.”  You may not think your boy in danger, but beware.  If he is not bad himself, he is in bad company, and that is the first step to being bad.  A little care and trouble now may be the means of making your boy a credit to himself, and an honor to his parents, instead of an inmate of a gloomy penitentiary. 

 

The Express made a similar appeal to parents on March 6, 1863:

 

     Boys Out at Night:  A cotemporary in a distant town, while passing a group of boys a few evening since, heard one of them remark, as a number of ladies approached, “let the ladies pass for God’s sake!” to which several of the responded, “Amen!” “Amen!”  Commenting on this scene the editor very truthfully says: “These street night schools are black cancer-spots in any community.  The boys who are trained in them soon graduate and fill up the ranks in the gambling and drinking dens.  Parents who are thus careless of the sacred trust given into their keeping, will by and by, reap a bitter harvest.  Much sympathy will then be given them, and the waywardness of their children duly mourned and wondered over.  Our sympathy is for the little fair-haired boys who are thrust into the street to learn vice and infamy, instead of being taught and carefully nurtured in the circle of home.  In many cases, we think parents allow children to roam the streets nights because the house is more quiet and they are not ‘plagued with the noisy boys.’  Better bear the noise, mothers, and bend all your energies to making home the one bright spot of all the earth, than to have in coming years living graves in your households, and mourn that your children had not died in their innocence.  There are sadder things than death, as many a sorrowing mother can testify.” 

 

Such complaints were not limited to the male gender, as the Daily Inquirer printed the following on October 9, 1862:

 

     Fast Girls.—Much has been said about the fast boys and young men of this city, but we are likely to be eclipsed in their sphere, by a class of young girls, who are already decidedly fast, and who by their conduct on the streets, give promise of far outstripping their male competitors—if competition in such an unenviable career can be the aim of any one.  Our streets, every evening, from early dusk, until the late hours of the night, are traversed by a crowd of girls, many of them of but from fourteen to sixteen years of age, whose conduct is of the most disgusting character, and whose conversation is of such a nature, that respectable ladies must blush for shame when they are compelled to pass them on the street.  Oaths are freely uttered, men and boys addressed in familiar and licentious manner, and language, which is too disgusting for any but the most depraved, is used by these girls with a freedom and frequency, that indicates a most wretched disregard for anything like morals.  These exhibitions of depravity should be stopped on our streets, and the authors of them properly cared for, or the time will soon come, when our citizens will have to give way to these fast girls, or suffer all kinds of insult when business or pleasure calls them from their homes. 

 

Words from the August 25, 1862, Daily Inquirer give another meaning to “fast” Young America:

 

     Fast Driving.—There is entirely too much of this fast driving by the young “bloods” of this city, and something should be done to put a stop to it.  Yesterday afternoon as two men were engaged in trying the speed of their respective nags, on one of the back streets, they came near running over several children.  For the benefit of these sporting individuals, and in fact for the benefit of all who are guilty of this dangerous habit, we will remind them that there is an ordinance in relation to fast driving. 

 

As shown by the December 10, 1862, Express, much moral criticism targeted one specific social institution:

               

     “Dances:” These institutions, which lead numbers of our young men on the road to ruin, are multiplying to an extent which is intolerable.  Hardly a night passes that the pedestrian does not hear the sound of a violin at two or three places, the noise and the characters who occasionally appear at the doors clearly showing what is the tendency of the performance within.  Lewd characters frequent these places, are in fact the leaders in the arrangement, and it is Impossible for any one to mingle with them without partaking in their corruption.  Some of these places are frequently noisy as to annoy the neighborhood; and yet we hear of no interference by the police, who are always conveniently absent, lest they should gain the ill-will of those engaged in the affair.  Indeed, so far from the interfering with them, some officials rather encourage and assist them, as may be seen from the fact that, on occasion not long since, (during the present season) a magistrate was assisting the management of the concern to procure a room for the purpose, and when they at length did find a place, an officer officiated for a time as door-keeper.  This is doing well(?) we should think, and calls not only for public notice, but for prompt amendment.  Let all respectable citizens unite in putting down these disgraceful performances. 

 

On May 3, 1862, the Express quoted an article appearing in the Manheim Sentinel that painted a similar picture of the moral vices of Young America.  Seven days later, the Express editors had the following to say about their contemporaries in Manheim:          

    

     Consistency:  Some days ago, we called the attention of our readers to a very appropriate article from the Manheim Sentinel, on the subject of the manner in which young men spend their evening hours; an article which received hearty endorsement at the time.  What was our astonishment, then, when in the current issue of the Sentinel, we found such a notice, editorially given, as the following:

     “Grand Ball:  Kiefer of the Lager Beer Saloon down town has made arrangements for a Grand Ball to come off this Friday night.   We understand he has engaged No. 1 music for the occasion.  Go it legs.”

     Now this, we conceive, is wrong—utterly unjustifiable: for if the solicitude expressed for the young men was real, why put before them the temptation afresh in the columns of a newspaper, when they have it already, in more than sufficient quantity, before their eyes.  If this is an example of consistency—recommending (for the article amounts to that) the very thing against which it strongly argued a week ago—then we will have learned a lesson as to the meaning of that word.  Since the Sentinel, in effect, disclaims its article, we will adopt it, and say with double force to our young men—do not attend these “balls” or “dances,” or whatever they may be called, if you value health or character. 

 

A final editorial from the Express of December 6, 1862, touches on the more playful side of Young America—and that of the newspaper editors, as well:

 

     The Snow is a godsend to the boys, who are determined to make the most of it while it lasts, and carry the resolve into execution by bombarding everything and everybody within long range.  There is no better fun than snowballing, as we well remember from our school-boy experience; but it should not be practiced in the streets, especially during market hours, as it is annoying to those who are not concerned in the fun.  Let the balls fly, boys, and batter each other as effectually as possible, but keep them out of the way of your elders, who can’t appreciate the beauties of a snowball as it appears when striking them in the face or deranging the contents of their baskets, especially when the snow was drifting in their eyes so that they could not see whence the missile came. 

 

 

 

Preferences in Authenticity and Quality

By Lindsey Koch

To the Ladies (or curious gentlemen…)

      One might find authentic reenacting a daunting past time, as it can be stressful trying to get a reenacting wardrobe together without any help. This is precisely the reason this article was written: a reminder of important things to look for when purchasing attire—shall we call it “the guide to better shopping”?

      If you’re new to the hobby, or even a pro, visits down sutler row can be both a tantalizing and a frustrating adventure. It’s important to know what to look for when purchasing a new article for your reenacting wardrobe. As someone with the fortune to have both the time and instruction in the art of sewing, a trip down sutler row can be very instructional on what not to do. There is a vast difference between an original dress and those (often synthetic) frocks hanging from sutler tents. Here are my notes on the matter.

      Quality of clothing. When purchasing a dress, one would do well to first note the use of piping. Piping is a small string enclosed in the same fabric as the dress and sewn into the seams. Originals often exhibited piping placed at the armholes, neckline, and waist, but for most purposes the armhole piping is the most important for a reproduction dress to have. Here are a few questions to ask yourself: Does it have piping? (If not, put it back on the rack and continue to the next sutler) Is the piping of a contrasting color to the dress? (This again is a no-no, the piping should generally be of the same fabric as the dress) Is the piping miniscule? The smaller the piping the more authentic, period garments had such tiny piping it is often hard to detect! ==== Approximately the width between these two lines.

      Skirt yardage. It is ideal to have a vast quantity of such in order to achieve a proper drape of the skirt. Widths of skirt hems varied in the 1860s, generally four to five yards (144-180”) is appropriate for most body types – very large women may desire slightly more in their skirts to achieve the proper drape. For sheer dresses it was advised that more yardage be used in order to decrease visibility of undergarments. Naturally work dresses (or wash dresses as they were often termed) will need fewer yardages in the skirt, as they will be worn without a hoop, or over a corded or rope petticoat. About three to four yards is probably sufficient for these skirts. Please keep in mind that the amount of fabric in a skirt will also vary with the dress size, a smaller person will need to use less fabric than a larger person, and smaller people may have a harder time fitting vast amounts of fabric into their waistband if sewing a dress. Often fabrics in the civil war era were not as wide as modern bolts. Some silks came in 20 inch wide weaves. This is important to keep in mind when reading period dress yardage estimates. Too little fabric in a dress will not drape properly and will not look period.

      Pleating. It is very important to both quality and authenticity of a garment to choose a dress which has the correct pleating for the correct circumstance. There are three types of pleating, Cartridge pleating or gauging, which was used more prior to the war, knife pleating or directional pleating, and box pleating, which increased in popularity toward the late war. There is also gathering. In most cases pleating was used on day dresses and other formal garments, while gathering remained in use mainly on work dresses and some sheer dresses. If you were looking for a more authentic dress I would recommend you steer clear of gathered skirts because the majority of skirts were pleated during the era. See the book Who Wore What? by Juanita Leisch. Bodices should be attached to skirts – not separate blouses that tuck in. Don’t purchase articles of clothing that are not attached for a regular day dress. Most bodices were attached to skirts by being sewn either directly to the skirt or to a waistband. Many dresses had what is termed a zigzag closure (I’m sure that must be a modern term…) rather than the skirt closure meeting directly up the center of the dress, it meets at the left hand front side, and is hooked to the bodice through a series of hook and eyes. Dresses with a center front closure can be intolerable in many cases, especially if there is not enough fabric in the skirt. The ‘closure’ will be forever exposing one’s undergarments, a very uncultured misdemeanor.

      Bodice closures. Functional button closures were mainly used on work dresses, on better dresses hook and eye closures are noted, although buttons sewn to the outside are very popular trim. This is a good way to spice up an old dress. Due to space issues I shall skip over sleeve styles, only remarking that few cotton dresses exhibited pagoda sleeves. Cotton dress – gathered or coat sleeves; silk or wool dress – pagoda, gathered or coat sleeves. Please see the text Who Wore What? by Juanita Leisch for more information on sleeve styles and usage (This book is practically the civilian reenactors’ Bible, every female civilian reenactor should have easy access to a copy).

      Fabrics. It is important to look for historical prints when purchasing a dress or yardage to make a dress. There is no way to salvage a dress that is made of incorrect fabric. There are books available such as Dating Fabrics; A color guide 1800-1960 by Eileen Jahnke Trestain to aid in the dating of fabrics, but if you cannot select a good print from a bad one it is very important that you get the advice of someone you know and trust…i.e. don’t ask the sutler from whom you’re purchasing. Also beware of Internet sellers…don’t click bid just because it says civil war…I’ve seen an awful lot of tacky colonial gowns go up for auction as civil war reproductions. But I know you all know better than that, the point is if you don’t know-ask. There are reproduction prints available in cotton fabrics. Many quilt stores carry these prints, but most of them will not be marked specifically as civil war reproduction prints – again, until you get an eye for what you’re looking for it’s best to take a pal along. Silk fabrics are great to use because they were readily available during the civil war era and a great majority of dresses were made in silks, wools, and blends of the two. Wools were used for everything from  plain work dresses to better day dresses and came in a variety of seasonal weights. Wools are still available today in various weights, but are harder to come by. An important characteristic of wool is its fire retardant quality. Another very important thing to look for when buying a dress is whether or not the type of fabric it is made of is appropriate to the cut of the bodice. Very few to no fitted or darted bodices were made of cotton – this is because cotton could not withstand the strain put on the darted seams. Wools and silks were used instead for darted bodices. Any type of fabric could be used for a gathered bodice – even silks. Dresses made of cotton should have a gathered or pleated bodice rather than darted. Also look out for bad trims – upholstery weight trims were not used on dresses in the civil war era and can really spoil a great dress. Self-fabric trims were used frequently in the civil war era, as well as ribbon, velvet, and beaded trims. Fabric strips were often pinked and pleated, or gathered and sewn onto the dress.

      Undergarments. Before buying a dress it is important to have the appropriate undergarments. A corset is a must. The corset will create mono-bosom – similar to the sports bra look. The corset is important to have because it helps to keep the petticoats, hoop, and dress in place – without a corset petticoats are hard to keep at the waist, and can often be very heavy and hurt. The corset supports the heavy fabrics that are layered over it. A few years ago I asked a reenactor friend how she got the skirts of her dresses to lay so well – she looked just like she had stepped out of time – her response was: starch. Since then I’ve learned the importance of starching petticoats. Not only will starched petticoats hold out a skirt beautifully, they will help keep the dirt from settling in the fabric.

      Hats, Bonnets, and other reenactorisms in headwear…oh my! Headwear is an important part of your reenactment wardrobe; do not leave home without it…the Victorians certainly would not have. Period paintings will show us very little evidence of women not wearing headwear when out of doors. One of the great mistakes among reenactors is the misinterpretation of headwear. Hats seem to be the greatest problem, there are far too many available that are inauthentic. Here are the dos and don’ts of hats: Its very stylish for someone under twenty to wear a hat for anything she may please, save formal occasions such as church services, and naturally she will find it much warmer to wear bonnets come winter. For women very far over twenty, it is more authentic to wear a bonnet. Straws are recommended in period magazines for spring, summer, fall, and silks are stylish for winter. There are also other types of headwear available to the reenactress, and some of these may be fairly more affordable than most authentic bonnets. For summer a corded or slat bonnet in cottons, silks, wools or sheers was worn. With the cool winds of winter a warmer hood was needed, hence the invention of the quilted hood, made from silks, wools, and velvets, also used was the knitted hood in a plethora of styles.

      Outerwear. In paintings of the day it hardly goes unnoticed that almost every woman depicted out of doors is wearing some sort of outerwear, be it a shawl, mantle, paletot, or cloak. Shawls came in a variety of styles, wool shawls were usually squares folded over to form a large triangle, these often had self-fabric fringe about their border. The Chantilly lace shawl is stunningly authentic, although these are very hard to acquire, and generally originals must be used because reproductions are not available. Be wary of synthetic lace shawls, these do not properly mimic their ancestors in drape or beauty. Paisley shawls were also extremely popular and originals are still readily available and relatively affordable. There were many names for paletots or jackets of the period. These were often made in wools, velvets and silks. Often these articles were quilted inside for warmth…interlined with wool batting or wool flannel, and lined with polished cotton. Capes are also authentic, although they were not generally seen as often as other forms of outerwear. These too could be lined, but were often cumbersome and thus sometimes only lined in the upper portion.

      A few last notes: I am reminded of the words of a friend throughout this article, a friend who is often apt to note that we can never say always. I’ll try to heed her advice and not use the term, but I might add that this article is meant as a guide to tantalize your interest in researching the authenticity of clothing. Certainly there are instances in which the standard was broken, but in order to appear the more authentic, it is advisable to stick to certain guidelines, a number of which are mentioned above. Most Reenactors seek to represent the norm of the era. Remember, there are always plenty of people willing to use the tale that their cousin lives in France and therefore they have access to the latest in French fashions, or the line about “well if I had lived back then I would have done it this way…” – we need not be those people (also known as farbs – Far be it from the truth) who claim that they are portraying some flamboyant belle – a personality who may or may not have existed in the civil war era – we don’t know because they didn’t do the research. The problem is, we did not live back then, and we are trying to portray people who did live through that time. It is important for us to look at the way they did it, otherwise how can we be certain that we would have thought to do “it this way” if we were an 1860s lady? We must remember that the people we are representing were not stupid, they did not choose to do things the way they did them because they were completely ignorant. Every choice they made in dress construction was for a reason, and if it is not readily apparent than it is my belief that we should trust that it was done for a reason, seek the answer, and eventually be enlightened. This article is meant as an eye opener to what to watch for in purchasing dresses or for the home sewist. It is important to mention that there are a number of very talented dressmakers available for hire who know a great deal in their field and will both make an authentic garment, and guide you in what to choose for your impression. For the beginner this is often not an option, and it is for this reason that the above guidelines are provided. These are all to be taken simply as the notes of another reenactor, and it is important that each person do their own research, and in matters of authenticity, please check the unit guidelines on authenticity (http://unionguard.cciu.org/civ/guidelines.htm). Also, don’t forget to turn to the authenticity committee with lots of questions; otherwise our jobs are boring.

 

                                    Sincerely Yours,

                                           Lindsey Koch

                                            Member of the Authenticity Committee

  

Links for the Beginning Civil War Reenactor:

http://unionguard.cciu.org/civ/civlinks.htm

     

 

Soldiers’ Correspondence

 

Lancaster’s Soldiers Experience Christmas in Kentucky, 1861

      Among the Lancaster companies to go off to war in 1861 were several in the 77^th, 78^th, and 79^th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry Regiments.  Unlike the majority of Pennsylvania’s Civil War soldiers who served in the war’s Eastern Theater, names of battlefields in Kentucky and Tennessee would grace the flags of these three regiments—a total of about 3,000 men—that left Pittsburgh in October 1861 under the command of Brigadier General James Negley.  Nine of ten companies of the 79^th Pennsylvania hailed from Lancaster City and County, thus earning it the nickname of the “Lancaster County Regiment.”  When recruiting the regiment, Colonel Henry A. Hambright strove for an all-Lancaster composition that would add recruiting value to the regiment and serve as a source of local pride.  However, he came up one company short before the state attached a company—the tenth company—from Washington County.  A tenth company from Lancaster was recruited anyway but attached to the 77^th Pennsylvania as Company K (Reenactor Kay Lingle has several ancestors with the surname Pontz who belonged to this unit).    Future Lancaster Mayor Fredrick Pyfer served as its captain, and Benjamin Ober took the lieutenancy.  Both had served in the Three Months’ Campaign of 1861, during which Ober wrote a series of letters to the Republican Lancaster Daily Evening Express, precursor to Lancaster New Era.  After enlisting in the 77^th Pennsylvania, he continued writing as the regiment crawled along the Louisville & Nashville Railroad towards Nashville.  The following letter excerpt comes from the January 1, 1862, edition of the Daily Evening Express.  Errors in the original publication of the letter, many of which were likely typesetting errors, were retained. 

       

from our own correspondent.

Banks of Green River, Ky. Dec. 26, 1861.

        Yesterday (Christmas) was very generally observed in the different camps, no duty being performed except the usual guard duty and a dress parade in the evening.  The boys from from the Old Keystone State kept the holiday, after the traditions of their fathers and mothers—in truly royal style.  For several days before the advent of the festival day, the country for miles around was scoured in search of the patriarchal gobbler.  If unsuccessful in securing such a prize, anything that wore feathers was made to answer.  Some, however, of the 79^th, more fortunate than the rest of us, were supplied from Lancaster County barn-yards, and of course enjoyed the feast with additional zest.  The subscriber had the pleasure of dining, in company with a number of the officers of the 79^th, at the invitation of Lieut. Frank Kurtz, of Company I, in the marquee thereof.  If I held the pen of the “gay and incomparable” Jenkins between my fingers, I would undertake to describe the “spread” in detail; but being a plain narrator of fact, I must content myself with a simple repetition of the

bill of fare

Roast Turkey, with dressing and sauce.

Westphalia Ham, cold, sliced.

Lancaster County Butter.

Lancaster County Bread.

Cranberry Sauce.

Lancaster County Pickles.

Lancaster County Smoked Sausage.

Lancaster County Pound Cake, iced.

Coffee. (U. S.)

Lancaster County Loaf Cake.

Mince Pie.

English Cheese.

wine list.

        (The key of the wine cellar having been mislaid, the crystal water of the Green River was substitute.)

        Now, no doubt, the perusal of this bill of fare will excite a smile on the face of more than one of your readers.  But I must affirm that I never enjoyed a Christmas dinner with more zest than that of yesterday.  All the substantials were present, if the et ceteras which usually grace the table at home on this festival were absent.  The turkey was done to a turn, the ham was exquisite, and the mince pie would have tickled the palate of the most dainty epicure.  The interior was prepared in Lancaster by the lady of one of the officers of Company I, and the frame-work constructed by the cook of the same company.  I don’t exactly know whether these are the technical terms employed when making pies, but I think they are sufficiently comprehensive to be understood by the masculine reader: A lady of domestic habits would probably state the thing in a different way. 

        I spent an hour in the camp of the 79^th, and found all hands enjoying themselves in the happiest manner possible under the circumstances.  Some of the “boys,” with the traditions of “ye olden times” still fresh in their memories, put up Christmas trees in front of their quarters, and in lieu of the usual ornaments, profusely decorated them with army crackers and pieces of flitch.  The trees bore a very distant resemblance to those which gladdened our hearts on Christmas morn, “when you and I were boys, dear Tom.”

        In the 77^th, the day was also happily spent.  The usual rigid discipline was somewhat relaxed, and the men allowed more latitude than would be altogether prudent at all times.  Many took occasion to call on their friends in the several encampments, and to visit the different points of interest in the neighborhood.  But I am glad to say that none of them abused the privilege thus extended them.  I passed through a number of encampments myself, but saw very little dissipation or disorder.   In the evening our band serenaded a number of the officers, and made the night vocal with patriotic airs.  The day throughout was pleasantly spent in the Division of the Cumberland.  May all the brave hearts now here live to see many returns of the same festival!

        The 77^th is rapidly improving in discipline and drill, and will soon rank as one of the best regiments in the service.  We have clothing in abundance, and the rations are both good and plentiful.  There are over a hundred Lancasterians now in the regiment, the names of whom I will forward you shortly.  To-morrow our regiment will cross to the South side of Green river on outpost duty.

        The Rev. Chas. Steck, chaplain of the 79^th, arrived a few days since and has assumed the discharge of his duties.  He expresses himself much pleased with camp life.

Ben.

 

 

Calendar

November 2005

5-6	Troops and Trains - Strasburg Railroad
13	Unit Meeting - 2:00 PM at the Ironville Church
19	Remembrance Day - Gettysburg, PA (Information below)

December 2005

4	Marietta Candlelight Tours - Marietta, PA (Look for information to come soon)

January 2006

14	Christmas Party - Bube's Brewery (See committee’s flyer—available on website, click on Calendar)

 

A Report from the

Lancaster County Historical Society Living History

By Kay Lingle

           

(Kay Lingle as Rosina Hubley, President of the Patriot Daughters of Lancaster)

Dear Patriot Daughters and our Agents,

     I wish so much to thank all of you who participated in our efforts at the Historical Society. It was good of you to educate the citizens of Lancaster in the importance of our cause. The display of goods we wish to collect aroused much interest and our quilters amazed all with their ability to make such tiny stitches into works of great beauty and utility. The black cockades were a sad token of our affection for our President, so recently taken from us.

     During the day we all mourned our dear President’s untimely death, all too soon after our hopes were raised by General Lee’s surrender. We were so honored to lay our roses and camellias on the casket when Mr. Lincoln’s funeral train passed through town. We thank the handsome soldiers who stood guard by the train.

     But as ever, during our evening meeting, the Patriot Daughters pondered and reflected on the events and remarks of the day and ended this mournful day with a ray of hope. We will take on the challenge to raise money to build a monument in our square! We thank Miss Kaitlyn for the wonderful idea! It shall have all the branches of the military represented and the Genius of Liberty on top facing North. It will be a great monument that generations of Lancastrians will cherish!

    We sorely missed our sisters of the Patriot Daughters who could not join us that day. We hope to see all of you participating to the utmost at our social events in Marietta and Mt. Joy during the Christmas season. We trust that many soldiers and agents will attend and enjoy some merriment during this blessed season.

With my highest regards and gratitude to all,

Rosina Hubley

 

Remembrance Day Information

(November 19, 2005—Gettysburg, Pennsylvania)

 

Saturday Morning Ceremonies:

      Assembly for the battlefield ceremonies is at 8:30 a.m. in the parking lot along Wheatfield Road on the north slope of Little Round Top near the Little Round Top Chuck Wagon, which stands near the intersection of the Wheatfield Road and the Taneytown Road.  From there, we will walk to various monuments of the Pennsylvania Reserves for remembrance ceremonies.  Military reenactors are reminded to bring white gloves and not to bring caps or cartridges.    

Saturday Afternoon Parade:

      Assembly for the battlefield ceremonies is 12:00 noon in the fields by the Lincoln Elementary School.  Look for the Mifflin Guard, the umbrella organization to which we belong.  The parade begins at 1:00 p.m.

Saturday Evening Ball:

      Traditionally, reenactors reserve Saturday evening for attending one of several balls held throughout Gettysburg.  The following invitation for a ball held specifically for Mifflin Guard units was passed to the editors for publication from Paul and Eileen Campos of the 26^th Pennsylvania: 

        The 26th & 81st PA are again hosting a period dance at the Gettysburg Recreation Center on Sat. Nov. 19th from 8PM-11pm.  There will be a DJ with period music and a caller, both of whom donate their services for free.  The cost is $6/person (14yrs. and under free) to cover the hall & kitchen rental, security guard (required), and supplies.  Any extra will be given as a donation for our caller & DJ.  The event is BYOBeverage (alcoholic or otherwise).  Coffee, tea, ice will be provided.  You are asked to bring along a simple dessert (finger food) to share.  It's not fancy but we all have a fun time. Most reenactors come dressed in their best uniform or day dress, or ball gown if you prefer. Guests are welcome to come in modern dress.

DIRECTIONS TO DANCE @ GETTYSBURG RECREATION CENTER on Long Lane:

        You can get to the Recreation building easiest by getting on Washington Street and turning onto Gettys St. Follow Gettys St. to the T-intersection and the parking lot is almost directly ahead of you. This is back behind the hospital where we used to form up for the parade.  If you are traveling North on Steinwehr from the Wax Museum, turn left on to Washington Street which is the street right after you pass Servant's [now called Memories Past Historical Outfitter's]. Go a short distance and just before you get to the Gettysburg Hospital, turn left on to Getty's Street.  Follow Gettys St. to the T-intersection and the parking lot is almost directly ahead of you. This is back behind the hospital where we used to form up for the parade.

 

NOTES:

 

GRUMBLING ABOUT ‘YOUNG AMERICA’